Linen is a natural textile made of flax fibers derived from the stems of the flax plant.
The word Linen is originally derived from the Latin Linum. Linen leads to terms like lining in English and lingerie in French. It refers to the inner fabric of garments and underwear made of Linen. As linen became more popular, its uses became more diverse and commonly refer to beddings and home decor accessories.
The fabric originated in Ancient Mesopotamia around 10,000 years ago. It took another 9,000 years for humankind to combine the wheel and flax to mechanize linen production. Due to its durability and royal look, linen production has continued to increase in recent years.
In this blog, we will discuss
- The History of Linen
- Which is the Best Quality Linen Today?
History of Linen
Wild flax fibers were found at Dzudzuana Cave, located in the foothills of the Caucasus, Georgia, indicating that prehistoric hunter-gatherers were making cords for hafting stone tools, weaving baskets and sewing garments in the Upper Paleolithic period. The Upper Paleolithic is the third and last subdivision of the Old Stone Age; This age broadly dates to between 50,000 and 12,000 years ago. Radiocarbon dates indicate that the cave was inhabited intermittently during several periods dated to 32,000 to 26,000 thousand years.
Egyptians
Flax was one of the first crops cultivated in the Fertile Crescent, the region of Middle East that was home to some of the earliest modern human civilizations, also known for innovations including writing, the wheel, agriculture and use of irrigation. The Babylonians the indigenous people of Middle East, were the first to start weaving flax and trading around 7,000 BC. However, the ancient world believed the Egyptians were the first producers of Linen.
Historians confirmed it was widely accepted to have originated in Egypt around 10,000 years ago. Carbon dating has shown that Egyptians used Linen as clothing in 8,000 BC.
Ancient Egyptians also utilized linen as currency, burial shrouds, and wrappings. They used sustainable linen fabrics to wrap the mummies during preservation. People found knots of linen cloth in the pharaoh's body. They highly preferred Linen because it can remain cool and fresh in warm weather; it dries quickly in hot and humid climates.
Ancient Greek Era and the Old Mediterranean World
The Ancient Greeks used Linen for garments and home Decor. They introduced linen production to Western Europe, which eventually adapted into European's flax production in the 12th century AD.
The domesticated flax plant was further developed in the early Mediterranean world from the fiber of wild flax. Linen was used prior to 1100 b.c.e., both in the Minoan period on Crete and the Mycenaean period on the Greek mainland. The tablets found in the so-called "Palace of Nestor" at Pylos in Greece show that flax was cultivated in the south-west of Greek island, Peloponnese before 1200 b.c.e., and in the later classical period, Elis in the north-west Peloponnese was well known for its fine linen.
How Linen was Used in the Middle Ages?
Modern civilization prefers Linen as it is environmentally friendly and diverse applications of the fabric. During the Middle Ages, the term linen became synonymous with household items such as Linen bedding, tablecloths, and towels and linen was a significant component of clothing also.
Several linen products, including leg hoses, stockings, and chemises became more common. The chemise and undershirts were made of Linen. Both men and women loved to wear linen clothes.
Women used to wear a soft linen singlet, which later evolved into a full chemise with long sleeves. Men wore loincloths or breeches, both made of Linen. The length of the linen chemise varied based on sex and period. Middle-age monks wore a white cap made from medium-weight Linen covering their ears and tied under the chin.
European Linen
Linen continued to be a staple fabric in the Western world for many centuries, used for undergarments, sleepwear, bedsheets, napkins, fishermen's nets, sails for ships, canopies as well as other household fabrics
- European powers began to regulate flax production in the 12th century AD.
- In 16th century France, linen artisans clothed people who attended royal courts in fine garments. However, many makers went into exile due to King Louis XIV's outlawing of Protestants which lead to the decline of French linen industries.
- In the 17th century, Haarlem, a city in the Netherlands became a significant center for linen production due to the migration of experienced weavers during the Dutch Revolt. However, the industry declined as makers moved production to rural areas.
- Ireland became the center of European linen production in the 18th century. Later, they reduced linen production as cotton became cheaper and easier to produce.
- In the American colonies, linen production was common in farm households. Families harvested, processed, spun, and weaved their flax each year. Self-sufficiency was a source of pride for American colonists, and textile production was one way to show it.
- However, by the mid-1800s, most small farms no longer grew or processed their flax because there were plenty of commercially available cloth.
- Home textile production saw a small recovery during the American Civil War but decreased when textile mills returned to producing civilian goods. This also reopened the supply routes to the South.
- By 1840, 71% of households in Tielt, city in Belgium were involved in linen production.
Why did the fall of the linen Industry Occur?
Linen production became easier and cheaper with the invention of the flax spinning machine by Philippe de Girard in 1810. However, Linen's decline began as cotton became the preferred textile for the industrial era. Despite its less durable and negative environment impacting cotton, Linen retained niche uses during the First and Second World Wars, particularly in making ropes and tarpaulins; the German army cut off European flax productions during these times to be available solely for their war supplies.
Which is the Best Quality Linen Today?
Belgian Linen is of the best quality due to its special cultivation and production process they honed. It is the most sustainable Linen cultivated from the longest fiber. Western Europe, including France, Belgium, Ireland, the Netherlands, and Spain, are the world's largest exporter of linen fabrics for home decor. Moreover, you can purchase linen products made by the 'Master of Linen' at the Ecoist, an online marketplace for the finest Belgian and other European linen of home decor and accessories.
Frequently Asked Questions FAQs
What is Belgian Linen?
Belgian Linen is one of the most exquisite linens cultivated from European flax plants. It is famous for its sophisticated weave design, softness, comfort, and durability. Libeco Belgian Linen is certified as the Master of Linen that is a sustainable choice for bedding and home decor for its breathable weaving textures, timeless-style designs, carbon neutral productions and circular economy brand.
References:
(Belfanti, 2005) https://www.researchgate.net/publication/236831983_The_European_Linen_Industry_in_Historical_Perspective_review
(Slendzoka, 2023)
https://earthytextiles.com/blogs/blog/a-timeless-fabric-the-historical-evolution-of-linen
(Mayne, 2004)
https://muse.jhu.edu/pub/1/article/52287/summary
(Gray, 2003)
https://mural.maynoothuniversity.ie/1120/
(Ollerenshaw, 2003)
